Diary of North Bengal 3/ Tigresses of Khayerbari

The Two Tigresses

“Earlier, I used to get frightened, seeing elephant. But now, I’m habituated.”

We were surprised by the fearlessness in the voice of Mamoni, a ten year old girl. We just completed a wonderful ‘safari’ under the guidance of Mamoni and her friend in South Khayerbari Nature Park. 

On progressing a few kilometers towards Birpara from Madarihat, one can find the road mark of South Khayerbari, on the left hand side. The kutcha road leading towards the Nature Park, is amidst the dark, thick forest. We were warned beforehand that the elephants are frequent visitors in this road. Not just one or two, after travelling almost ten kilometers, we saw the entry gate of the South Khayerbari Nature Park.   

This Nature Park is actually a rehabilitation centre for tigers and leopards. The tigers who used to entertain us in circus are given shelter here. The leopards rescued from the captivity of the poachers are also given shelter. 

As we entered the nature park, two schoolgirls came running. Mamoni Arya, a student of class five and Dipika Das, studying in class four. They will show us the entire Nature Park, instead we have to pay just 20 rupees.  

Such a meager guide charge, we immediately agreed to take them as our guide. Our ‘safari’ through the Nature Park began. As soon as we started, we had to cross a little stream. This is Buri Torsha, as told by Mamoni and Dipika. Boating facilities are also there in the stream. The Nature Park is divided into two main parts, ‘Leopard Safari Park’ and ‘Tiger Rescue Center’. Till a few months ago, safaris were used to be conducted inside the Leopard Safari Park, by battery-run cars. But for some unknown reasons, those safaris are stopped by the forest officials. 

---“not from that side, follow me in this direction.”

---“but this is backside!”

---“Yes, it is backside, but since its afternoon now, we will find them here only”

Entry Point

We were amazed by the confidence of the two friends. So, with their insistence we took the road, which is comparatively bad than the main one. Through bushes and weeds, we progressed. The two friends were proved correct. We did see a few leopards. They are taking rest after having their lunch. Age has taken toll in their body. No one has any power to carry out any violent activities. We understood that once upon a time, they were really tortured. 

From Leopard Safari Park, we headed to Tiger Rescue Center. On our way, we had a little conversation with Mamoni and Dipika. 

An Old Leopard

Both the friends stay in a nearby village. Dipika’s father has passed away while he was working for Indian Railways in Kerala. Their family appealed for compensation from Railways a lot of times, but the Railways turned a blind eye to their appeal. Dipika has three sisters and a brother. Her mother has a temporary shop on the gate of the Nature Park, selling tea-coffee-chips-biscuits. Her brother helps her mother in the shop. Mamoni’s native home is in Assam. 21 years ago, their family shifted to this village. Mamoni’s father and mother too run a shop outside the Nature Park. 

A few moments later, the Tiger Rescue Center came. It is the den for the Royal Bengal Tigers. The place is surrounded by net. The net is so high, that even if tigers come towards the net, the visitors will not get scared. There is strict order of the forest officials. One should not climb the net. But some of the visitors were very gladly defying the orders. 

According to Mamoni, there are all total eleven tigers here. We took a trip around the den, and were lucky enough to spot the oldest resident of the Rescue Center. Once upon a time he used to entertain the crowd in the circus. But now, the age has taken a toll on him. He is so weak, that he has to take the support of the wall to move about. With the help of two little guides, we had a wonderful safari. 

The Tiger

We came to the topic of elephant menace. We, the tourist crave for elephants in forest safari. We get disappointed, if we don’t see elephant. But do we care about those people who fight with elephant almost regularly to continue with their livelihood? Yes, Mamoni and Dipika’s family also face attack by elephants. Elephants attacked their village a few days ago also, but thankfully they spared their homes, but damaged the other homes of the villages. 

---“Don’t you get frightened by the elephants?”

---“we made our homes encroaching the natural habitat of elephant. They will take revenge on us. We are habituated with it.”

The fearlessness in the voice of the two little girls stunned us.

We came to see the tigers and leopards in Khayerbari. Apart from them we met with two tigresses also. 

Read More: Diary of North Bengal 2/ Rhino sighting in Jaldapara

How to reach?

Khayerbari is just 12-13 kms from Madarihat. Catch any New Jalpaiguri bound train from anywhere in the country. Get down at New Jalpaiguri, and head to Madarihat. Madarihat is at a distance of 125 from New Jalpaiguri. People can also avail Bagdogra bound flights and head to Madarihat. There is a Madarihat Railway Station. But only a few local trains stop at the station. 

Where to Stay?

West Bengal Tourism runs two properties here. The Jaldapara Tourist Lodge is at Madarihat while the Hollong Tourist Lodge is in the core area of the National Park. Both the Lodges can be booked though the website of Tourism, www.wbtdcl.com. There are many private properties also in Madarihat. You can find them through various booking portals.