Diary of North Bengal 2/ Rhino sighting in Jaldapara

“Oh no Just now saw a peacock.”

  “So, what’s the big deal! You will see peacock in a forest safari.”

  “Sighting peacock is a matter of bad luck. Now we will not be able to spot any Rhino in the safari.”

  “Don’t worry, we will see Rhinos.”

  “If that happens I will give a treat to you.”

 

Safari Just Started

 

  This was the conversation between me and my aunt. She believes that seeing a Peacock at the start of a forest safari is not good, as you can’t see the main resident of the forest. She gave a solid reason, supporting her statement. According to her, the presence of Peacock suggests the absence of any wild animals nearby. 

 

Soon, we saw a Peacock

  

We have started our safari in Jaldapara National Park, one of main National Parks of Dooars in North Bengal. It is the second destination of our tour. We reached here yesterday evening. We had our booking in the West Bengal Tourism run Jaldapara Tourist Lodge, in Madarihat, on the outskirts of the National Park. As we entered the Lodge, the manager just ordered us to go to the booking counter and book the safari tickets. He told us that its peak season now, and if we delay a bit, we might lose the chance of enjoying a forest safari.  

  It was 4’o clock in the evening. The counter was to open at 6’o clock. But already there was a long queue. All want to get hold of a safari ticket. A total of four safaris are conducted every day, two each in morning and evening. Sixteen jeeps are allowed to enter the National Park during a safari. So tickets for 64 jeeps are given for a day. Elephant Safaris are also conducted here but for that the tourists residing in the Hollong Tourist Lodge inside the National Park, are given priority. 

  The counter opened at six and a sort of chaos followed. All want to get hold of a form. Getting the form is the main thing. Once you get it, you safari is confirmed. Now you have to complete the formalities of filling up the form and pay the amount accordingly. We did all the necessary things. Our safari was fixed at 8:30 in the morning. 

  The jeep picked us up from the Tourist Lodge itself. We were accompanied by jeep driver Swapan Das and forest guard Chayan Subba. The early morning safari has just been completed. The tourists who have completed that safari were visibly disappointed. After enquiring we got to know that they didn’t get to see any Rhino, the main resident of the National Park. On seeing us a bit worried, Mr Subba assured us, “probability of Rhino sighting is more in the safari of 8:30.” So chanting Maa Durga’s name, we started our Safari. 

  Jaldapara National Park is famous for its habitat of one-horned Rhinoceros. It has the largest population of one-horned Rhinos in India. Apart from Jaldapara, only the Garumara National Park houses this species of Rhinos.  In 1941, Jaldapara was declared a Wildlife Sanctuary, and subsequently in 2012, it earned the status of a National Park.  

  After progressing through the National Highway towards Madarihat Bazar for a kilometer, came the entry gate of the National Park on the right hand side. After waiting for a few minutes for registration purpose, we started our journey through the forest. As we started, we saw the Peacock. All, but me, became disappointed.

 

The Hollong Tourist Lodge

 

  Through the kutcha roads amidst the forest, we progressed. This is the Buffer Zone of the forest. After travelling almost seven-and-a-half kilometers, we reached the Hollong Tourist Lodge. It was known as Hollong Forest Rest House, while it was under the Forest Department of West Bengal. Now it has been undertaken by the Tourism Department. Former Chief Minister of the State, Jyoti Basu used to spend his vacation in this Lodge. 

  To enjoy the real beauty of Jaldapara, one has to spend at least a night in Hollong Lodge. The Rhinos generally come to the basement of the Lodge in the night. The Hollong River runs adjacent to the Lodge. Tourists residing in this Lodge can also enjoy the scene from the window, when the Rhinos come to drink water of the river.  

 

First Rhino Sighting

 

  After waiting a few moments in Hollong we restarted our safari. As we moved farther, the characteristic of the forest started to change. The tall trees were replaced by grasses. These grasses are known as the ‘Elephant Grass’. It looks much like the African forests. A little far away, we can spot the Himalayan ranges. Our destination is the Jaldapara Watch Tower. 

 

Another One...

 

  After running through grassland, the dense forest came back. Our jeep stopped suddenly. Following order of Mr Subba, we turned to our left. Our anxiousness finally ended. We could spot the King of Jaldapara. We were so excited that we started shouting on the top of our voice. Mr Subba asked us to stop the shout. After a brief stop, we moved forward, and stopped once again. Another Rhino, this time on our right side. The Cameras came out once again. The Rhino eagerly fulfilled the wills of the tourists. 

 

 

Jaldapara Watch Tower

   

We stopped once again. Not for Rhino this time, but for an elephant. He was far away from us, so our cameras could not shoot him. Finally we reached the Jaldapara Watch Tower. Once again the dense forest has been replaced by Elephant Grasses. The Watch Tower is the last point in the National Park for the tourists. Beyond this point, the forest is only for the wild animals. For almost ten minutes we enjoyed the National Park from the top of the watch tower, but unfortunately we couldn’t spot anyone. 

  Our next destination was the Harindanga Watch Tower. On our way we spotted two more Rhinos. One was busy eating the grass, while six-seven birds were sitting happily and enjoying a slow ride on the back of another. Both of them very eagerly made poses for us to click their photos. 

 

And Another...

 

  There was not much of a difference between Jaldapara Watch Tower and Harindanga Watch Tower. It was also surrounded by the Elephant Grass. The towering Himalayas can be seen far away. However, like the other watch tower, no one could be spotted here also. But the surrounding beauty was simply mesmirising. The clock ticked 9:45. Mr Subba told that it is the time to start return journey. Safari is over. 

 

From The Top Of Harindanga

 

But a surprise was still in the waiting. An Elephant was busy eating grass. But there was just a small distance between us, the tourists and the Elephant. We were very frightened as we were dangerously close to the Elephant. “Nothing will happen; there is a small stream in between. It will not cross that.” Assured Mr Subba. Soon, the Cameras came out from the bags. The Elephant also acknowledged us, by raising his trunk.

How to reach?

Catch any New Jalpaiguri bound train from anywhere in the country. Get down at New Jalpaiguri, and head to Madarihat. Madarihat is at a distance of 125 from New Jalpaiguri. People can also avail Bagdogra bound flights and head to Madarihat. There is a Madarihat Railway Station. But only a few local trains stop at the station. 

 

Jaldapara Tourist Lodge

 Read More: Diary of North Bengal -1/ On the banks of Jayanti

Where to Stay?

West Bengal Tourism runs two properties here. The Jaldapara Tourist Lodge is at Madarihat while the Hollong Tourist Lodge is in the core area of the National Park. Both the Lodges can be booked though the website of Tourism, www.wbtdcl.com. There are many private properties also in Madarihat. You can find them through various booking portals.